2942 North 24th Street #114-359
Phoenix, AZ 85016
no phone # here 'cuz I can't possibly talk to everyone on the phone . . . but I can do e-mail every waking moment, try it =o)

22R / 22RE -- Identify before you buy ! !
(and SAVE a lot of time and money =o)

22R is carbureted // 22RE is fuel injected

It's ol' PD hisself !

Please take a look at the easiest ways to identify your specific model of 22R/22RE engine so you can get the right parts on the first try. Don't just shoot in the dark because someone told you what engine is in your vehicle. Look how old it is already! If you don't have the complete history of your vehicle, you can bet that it has probably had at least one heart transplant before you got it, so why not take a look at a few areas of concern and order just the right stuff. You work hard enough for your money, don't you? No use giving it to UPS for shipping wrong parts back and forth !! =o)

OK, the first few items here will help to quickly compare what you have sitting in front of you:

    1981 thru 1984 blocks were about a quarter inch taller than the 1985 and newer models.
    The pistons in the early blocks have a "raised ring" around the top of the piston, as shown in this product description.

    The pistons in the 1985 and newer blocks have a "flat-dish" top to the piston with 2 valve reliefs, as shown in this product description.

    Main bearings design was changed on the early engines in March of 1982, please look at the images and descriptions carefully if you are working on an early engine. Measuring the thickness of the thrust bearings on your early engine will also help you get those correct for your specific project !!

    1981 thru 1984 cylinder heads (carb and fuel injected) all had round exhaust ports.
    1981 and 1982 exhaust manifold gaskets are just flat with an insulation material for the heat shield as shown in the image of this gasket set.
    1983 and 1984 exhaust manifold gaskets have an integral heat shield, as shown in the image of this exhaust manifold gasket.

    1985 and newer cylinder heads have a "pear-shaped" exhaust port.
    These exhaust gaskets also have an integral heat shield, as shown in the image of this exhaust manifold gasket.

    It is very important for you to know that 1985 and newer cylinder heads will not work on the early blocks as the "raised-ring" pistons will contact the head. Remember that the early (taller) blocks have different pistons compared to the late model blocks! Keep everything matched to the original design and you'll be happy =o)

    Because of the difference in the height of the blocks, the timing covers are not interchangable
    and you must use the correct cover to match your block.
    1981 thru 1984 blocks were 11.280" tall
    1985 and newer blocks were all 11.090" tall

    1981 thru 1984 engines have 98 links because of the slightly taller block
    1981, 1982 used a double-row 98-link chain
    1983, 1984 used a single-row 98-link chain
    1985 and newer engines all have a single-row 96-link chain

    I have published all timing chain kits and parts on one page so you can choose the configuration that you need.

  • Toyota 22R/RE Timing Chain Replacement -- I've read alot of discussions on various enthusiast forums and web sites about "what happened?" and, unfortunately, there's way too much misinformation published and it is misleading to those who may be first-timers to this common maintenance procedure. SO . . . . .

    • - Everything starts with the chain. All other damage is a result, not a cause. All of these chains stretch with miles . . . more miles, more stretch . . . more stretch, more chain flopping around inside. Consider how long the tense side of the system is, with no support for the chain whatsoever. Ignore the chain "guides" that came with this system. Plastic guides serve only to give the chain a place to rest when the system is not running, well, at least the curved guide on the tensioner side anyway. A plastic guide on the tense side? Stupid?, yup, but it sells alot of parts, huh? You'll find your old one in pieces in the oil pan.

    • - Stretched chain flopping around inside the cover will always break the plastic guide on the long (tense) side of the system. The original is plastic and can not / will not put up with much of that floppin and slappin in there. Why would Toyota use plastic for that side of the system? Simple. It sells parts. Why do some 22R/RE timing chains last longer on some engines than others? Consider how the chain is being treated over it's life. The chain in a 4 x 4 with 35" tires and standard transmission, taken off-road every weekend is being asked to put up with quite a bit of stress. The chain in my granny's automatic trans Celica . . . not so much, right?

    • - Use your timing light to check how bad the chain is flopping. If you are waiting for your ears to tell you something may be worn . . . sells more parts! This falls under the category of "maintenance, or major repair, which should I choose?"

    • - A flopping timing chain will 'saw' right into the timing cover at the coolant passage pretty soon after it knocks that plastic chain guide out of the way!
      Coolant in the crankcase oil is misdiagnosed (way too often) as a blown head gasket. Check your compression on all 4 cylinders before you decide it is a head gasket problem.

    • - This maintenance (or repair) project can be done without removing the cylinder head, you just need start at the oil pan and work up, but you really only need a valve cover gasket set, timing cover gasket set and the oil pan gasket to go with your timing chain kit.

I hope this information will help you to verify and identify the project you are working on and save a few folks some time and hard-earned cash by not guessing what the engine model really is. At any time, if you still have questions, please feel free to just e-mail me and ask. We always want you to get the right parts on the first try!!

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